https://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Brianlow&feedformat=atomThe Aquarium Wiki - User contributions [en]2024-03-28T10:14:42ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.29.2https://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Cyano_Bacteria_(Red_Slime)&diff=74958Cyano Bacteria (Red Slime)2012-12-31T21:15:55Z<p>Brianlow: </p>
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<div>==What is is it?==<br />
'''Cyano Bacteria ''' is a red bubbly substance ([[Cyanobacteria]]) that encrusts the rocks and glass of marine aquariums. <br />
<br />
==What causes Cyanobacteria?==<br />
While no conclusive evidence has been presented there are several factors that seem to contribute to the bloom of this pest. <br />
* too much proteins in the water column<br />
* lack of water flow<br />
* presence of phosphates and nitrates<br />
* high intensity poor quality lighting<br />
* low iron may allow it out-compete macroalgaes <ref>[http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/10/chemistry]</ref><br />
<br />
==How to get rid of Cyanobacteria.==<br />
Make sure that your [[Protein Skimmer]] is adequate for the size of tank it is placed on. The skimmer companies rate their skimmers all drastically different from each other, so make sure to purchase one with a good established reputation. Try feeding less food it is possible to keep proteins down by just feeding less. Make sure that there are no dead-spots lacking water movement. Test for [[phosphate]]s and [[nitrate]]s. If there is a presence of phosphates make sure to run ferric oxide or a comparable product in a media bag or media reactor. Phosphates may be undetectable but still a contributing factor if the cyano is consuming the phosphates. If there is a presence of nitrates run some carbon in a media bag or media reactor. The carbon does not lower nitrates directly it does so by reducing the [[ammonia]] in the water column and therefore not allowing the bacteria to turn it to nitrite and then to nitrate. If the lamps in your fixture are low quality or are getting older try replacing them with a more blue lamp. Try reducing the light cycle of your tank. If your lights are on for 12 hours try reducing that to 10 or 8 until the Cyano is gone.<br />
<br />
After all of the above have been exhausted there are some chemical treatments that have decent results. Chemiclean red slime remover, and Kent Poly-OX are two such products that should be available from any local fish store in the USA(?).<br />
<br />
Sometimes this problem can require a vast amount of time and effort to resolve but it can be done.<br />
[[Category:Articles]]<br />
[[Category:Algae]]<br />
[[Category:Bacteria]]</div>Brianlowhttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Help:Editing&diff=74957Help:Editing2012-12-31T21:11:55Z<p>Brianlow: Created page with "This site users MediaWiki format? http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Formatting"</p>
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<div>This site users MediaWiki format?<br />
<br />
http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Formatting</div>Brianlowhttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Stray_current&diff=71778Stray current2012-05-21T17:32:56Z<p>Brianlow: /* Recommendations */</p>
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<div>'''Stray current''' refers to unintentional electricity flowing through the aquarium water. Malfunctioning and deteriorating equipment are the usual sources and can represent a danger to the aquarist and livestock. Stray current is closely related to [[stray voltage]] - a voltage potential between the aquarium water and ground.<br />
<br />
== Stray current vs stray voltage ==<br />
In typical household circuits, current is far more dangerous than voltage. <br />
<br />
[[Stray voltage]] is an electrical potential difference between the water and earth ground. A voltage difference does not indicate any electricity is actually flowing through the water. It indicates the possibility of current to flow if a suitably low resistance path between the water and ground is introduced. So stray voltage on its own is not directly harmful. It is common to have some stray voltage as pumps can induce a voltage potential with their rotating magnets. <br />
<br />
Stray current refers to flowing electricity. It should be considered dangerous at even the milivolt range. When wet, the body's electrical resistance is dramatically reduced allowing more current to flow. At the 100ma range, current can cause ventricular fibrillation (uneven, uncoordinated pumping of the heart), muscular contraction, nerve damage, death is likely <ref>[http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/construction/electrical_incidents/eleccurrent.html How Electrical Current Affects the Human Body]</ref>. A properly functioning tank should not exhibit any measurable stray current (< 1mA). Stray current may or may not trip a GFCI receptacle depending on the path it takes. <br />
<br />
== Symptoms ==<br />
* shock and/or tingling when touching the water, in particular on cuts <br />
* shock and/or tingling when touching the water and a metal lighting fixture<br />
* GFCI outlet tripping<br />
* odd behaviour from fish or coral<br />
* possible cause of Head and Lateral Line Erosion (HLLE) disease<br />
* erroneous readings from pH probes<br />
<br />
== Sources ==<br />
=== Leaks ===<br />
An energized conductor is exposed to the aquarium water. This usually occurs when equipment is worn or damaged. For example, an electrical cord where the insulation is cracked or worn away. Other examples includes cracked housings on pumps and heaters. This is dangerous as the full current of the outlet may flow if the aquarist touches the water and a ground (like a grounded metal fixture). In rare cases, under the right circumstances (Murphy's Law), when there are multiple electrical cords/components in the water (which is the case with most of our systems), there is the possibility of current flowing from Line to Neutral or Ground from one cord to another. This current will flow from one component to the other, through the water & may not necessarily be measurable with a meter to ground. It will most probably affect your livestock though.<br />
<br />
=== Magnetic Induction ===<br />
Moving magnetic fields can induce a voltage and current in the aquarium water (or any conductor). Pumps and powerheads often have spinning magnets and may generate up to 50v of voltage but only very small amount of current. Flourescent bulbs (PC, VHO, T5) will also induce voltage and current. The current induced by these sources is small, in the nanovolt range <ref>[http://web.archive.org/web/20040624060942/http://www.aquarium.net/1298/1298_3.shtml Voltage in the Aquarium] - Test results of common aquarium equipment</ref>.<br />
=== Static electricity ===<br />
This may possibly be a small source of stray voltage. The large conductive surface film will likely dissipate any charge.<br />
<br />
== Identifying ==<br />
* Visual Inspection<br />
** Remove all equipment (perhaps as part of regular cleaning and maintenance)<br />
** Inspect cords for worn, chewed or damaged sections<br />
** Inspect where the cord enters the equipment and connects to the electrical plug. Is it secure and undamaged<br />
** Look for cracked housings on pumps<br />
** Look for water inside glass heaters<br />
<br />
'''<font color=red>WARNING - This procedure deals with mains power and is potentially fatal. If in doubt, contact an electrician. Consider performing a visual inspection as decribed above instead.</font>'''<br />
* Measuring with multimeter<br />
** Ensure all equipment is connected to a GFCI outlet. While this is not required for to measure current it will significantly reduce the risk of harm and/or death if a mistake is made.<br />
** Ensure you have a clear, dry area to work. Reduce the risk of accidentially touching anything in particular the water or ground.<br />
** Turn on all electrical equipment in contact with the water<br />
** Configure the multimeter to measure current (mA)<br />
** Some multimeters have multiple probe sockets, ensure your probes are in the correct sockets for measuring current <br />
** For older multimeters without auto-ranging: select the highest range<br />
** Place black probe in the third (ground) prong of the GFCI outlet (or an attached three prong extension cord)<br />
** Place red probe in the water<br />
** For older multimeters, if the meter reads 0 select the next lowest range and repeat until the meter reads non-zero or you select the lowest range.<br />
** If the multimeter reads 0ma, you are done, there is no stray current<br />
** Disconnect equipment one by one (don't forget float switches)<br />
** When the current reading drops, the last piece of equipment you disconnected is a source of stray current<br />
** Immediately replace all equipment contributing to stray current<br />
<br />
== Recommendations ==<br />
* Connect all equipment to one or more GFCI protected outlets<br />
* Periodically inspect equipment using the Visual Inspection procedure above<br />
* An aquarium should have no detectable stray current (detectable by a common multimeter). Replace any equipment contributing stray current.<br />
* Minimize contact between equipment and the water<br />
** Keep the control dial and cord on heaters above the water line<br />
** Keep electrical cords out of the water<br />
** Use external (non-submerged) pumps<br />
* Use drip loops<br />
* Consider low voltage DC pumps (EcoTech, Tunze, Koralia?) and LED lighting to reduce risk<br />
* Keep high voltage AC equipment as far away from the water as practical<br />
* Consider using moisture resistant electrical receptacles such as those used outdoors<br />
* Consider installing a ground probe (only if GFCI is present). There is debate as to the benefits of a ground probe. <br />
** At current levels above the GFCI trip current, the ground probe will trip preventing the current from flowing through someone contacting the water later. <br />
** At current levels below the GFCI trip current, the ground probe will allow current to flow where it would not have before potentially affecting livestock.<br />
** Do not use a ground probe to solve a problem with low levels of stray current, instead identify and replace the source.<br />
<br />
==Links==<br />
* [http://angel-strike.com/aquarium/GFI&TechnicalDetails.html Technical Considerations Regarding Static Potentials]<br />
* [http://angel-strike.com/aquarium/GroundingProbes.html Ground Probes]<br />
<br />
==References==<br />
<references/><br />
<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]</div>Brianlowhttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=DIY_LED_Fixture&diff=71770DIY LED Fixture2012-05-20T21:32:14Z<p>Brianlow: /* Forward Voltage */</p>
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<div>==Emitters==<br />
===Forward Voltage===<br />
Forward voltage is the minimum voltage required for the LED to emit light. A typical high power LED used in reef lighting has a 3V (volt) forward voltage. It may be referred to a Vf on a datasheet. The forward voltage is summed when wiring emitters in series and remains the same when wiring in parallel. For example, three emitters in series will require a power source that outputs at least 9V (3 x 3V) and three emitters in parallel will require at least 3V.<br />
<br />
===Current===<br />
===Brightness / Luminosity / Flux===<br />
===Color===<br />
===CRI===<br />
===Optics===<br />
===Packaging===<br />
===Bins / Binning===<br />
===Reading a datasheet===<br />
===Comparison table of common emitters===<br />
<br />
==Drivers and Power Supplies==<br />
===Sizing===<br />
===Drivers vs power supplies===<br />
===Comparison table of common drivers===<br />
<br />
==Cooling==<br />
===Heatsinks===<br />
===Thermal paste / glue / padding===<br />
===Mounting emitters===<br />
===Fans===<br />
<br />
==Wiring==<br />
<br />
==Design: livestock considerations==<br />
===How much light for various livestock===<br />
===Coverage and intensity guidelines for diff size tanks===<br />
<br />
==Design: asthetic considerations==<br />
===Coverage===<br />
===Disco ball===<br />
===Spotlighting===<br />
===Color temp===<br />
===Spacing===<br />
<br />
==Dimming and color control===<br />
===0-10V vs PWM===<br />
===Aquarium controllers Apex, DA, Profilux===<br />
===Dedicated controllers: typhoon, nano-box===<br />
===Manual dimming with knob===</div>Brianlowhttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Stray_Current&diff=71758Stray Current2012-05-19T05:44:19Z<p>Brianlow: Redirected page to Stray current</p>
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<div>#REDIRECT [[stray current]]</div>Brianlowhttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Stray_voltage&diff=71756Stray voltage2012-05-19T05:43:33Z<p>Brianlow: </p>
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<div>'''Stray voltage''' refers to a voltage potential between the aquarium water and ground. It is typically harmless but may indicate a potential for [[stray current]] which is harmful.</div>Brianlowhttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Stray_Voltage&diff=71754Stray Voltage2012-05-19T05:43:08Z<p>Brianlow: Redirected page to Stray voltage</p>
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<div>#REDIRECT [[stray voltage]]</div>Brianlowhttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Flatworm&diff=71285Flatworm2012-01-30T05:42:00Z<p>Brianlow: /* Control */</p>
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<div>'''Flatworms''' refer to a variety of small (0.5mm - 10mm long), flattened, symmetrical turbellarian worms in tropical and coldwater aquaria often considered pests. <br />
<br />
==Identification==<br />
The term flatworms covers a wide variety of species with significantly different reactions to control so correct identification is important. For other types of worms see [[Nematode]].<br />
<br />
=== Convolutriloba (including Red Planaria?)===<br />
[[Image:Convolutriloba_retrogemma.png|100px|right|text-top|Convolutriloba retrogemma]]<br />
Elongated body with rounded head and 3 lobes or projections on the tail end. Yellow/brown in color sometimes with a red gland near the tail end. These genera contain a toxin that is released when the animal dies. The animal will auto-lyse (self destruct) in response to stress. This may trigger other individuals nearby to auto-lyse as well. <ref name="ChemicalEradication-Morphology">[http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/4/aafeature2#section-5 Evaluation of Chemical Eradication Methods of Acoels (Acoelomorpha) From Marine Aquaria - Morphology of target species]</ref>. [https://sites.google.com/site/macropyga/identification Identification of convolutriloba species].<br />
<br />
===Heterochaerus Australis===<br />
[[Image:H._Australis.jpg|100px|right|text-top|H. Australis]]<br />
Elongated body with rounded head and 2 lobes or projections on the tail end. Yelllow/brown in color. Contains zooxanthellae. <ref name="ChemicalEradication-Morphology" /><br />
<br />
===Amphiscolops===<br />
Transparent, large round head with 2 lobes or projections on the tail end. Considerd harmless <ref>[http://www.melevsreef.com/id/clear_flatworm.html Melev's Reef - Clear Flatworm]</ref><br />
<br />
===Waminoa===<br />
[[Image:Waminoa on Plerogyra.jpg|100px|right|text-top|Waminoa]]<br />
Oval in shape with transparent bronze coloration. Contains symbiotic dinoflagellate. Not believed to prey on coral tissue <ref name="ChemicalEradication-Morphology" />.<br />
<br />
=== Acropora Eating Flatworm (AEFW)===<br />
Oval, white. Aggresively consumes the tissue of Acropora sp. coral. Species unknown <ref>[http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-09/mc/index.php Things that Suck: Acropora Eating Flatworms], Reefkeeping Magazine, Mitch Carl</ref> <ref>[http://www.liveaquaria.com/general/general.cfm?general_pagesid=362 Pests Invading the Reef Aquarium Hobby: Part 2 - Flatworms, Snails & Limpets]</ref>.<br />
<br />
==Diet==<br />
In the wild: diatoms, algae, protozoan and copepods. In aquariums: small invertebrates including copepods, Artemia naupli, polychaetes and rotifers <ref>[http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/4/aafeature2#section-3 Evaluation of Chemical Eradication Methods of Acoels (Acoelomorpha) From Marine Aquaria - Target acoelomorphs: Ecology]</ref>. Some species contain symbiotic photosynthetic zooanthellae or dinoflagellates implying they derive at least part of their energy indirectly through photosynthesis.<br />
<br />
==Affect on aquaria==<br />
* In large numbers, flatworms may cover coral starving them of light<br />
* The acropora eating flatworm is obviously a pest for acropora owners<br />
* Considered unsightly<br />
* Monitor your [[ammonia]] and [[nitrite]] levels as these flatworms tend to make an appearance on the sides of tanks as they attempt to escape the toxic water.<br />
<br />
==Control ==<br />
* Manual removal. Repeated removal over several months can eradicate them <ref>[http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?s=&showtopic=286902&view=findpost&p=3607103 brandon429, nano-reef]</ref>. Some techniques for removal:<br />
** can concentrate them in an area by shining a flashlight on a darkened tank for several hours<br />
** use powerhead and/or turkey baster to create high flow to dislodge from glass and rockwork, add filter sock/filter floss on drain to catch<br />
** siphon with airline tubing running into a bucket for disposal<br />
** siphon with airline tubing running to filter sock/filter floss in sump<br />
** turkey baster to suck out<br />
** paper towel to wipe off glass<br />
* Blackout tanks for several days. Some species contain symbiotic photosynthetic zooanthellae or dinoflagellates implying they derive at least part of their energy from light. Turn off all lights and block outside light sources for several days.<br />
* Reduce nutrients in the tank. Their diet isn't well known but it is likely either detritus or the higher level organisms that eat detritus. Some options:<br />
** Perform more frequent water changes<br />
** Vacuum the [[substrate]]<br />
** Feed less<br />
** Clean filters more often <br />
* Blue velvet nudibranch (Chelidonura varians) is known to consume flatworms. Like most nudibranches this species only consume one type of food (flatworms) and once the food supply is depleted they starve. <br />
* Several fish are reported to eat flatworms though the dietary preferences on individual fish will vary:<br />
** Freshwater:<br />
*** [[Gourami]]<br />
*** [[Pleco]]<br />
** Saltwater:<br />
*** Six line wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia)<br />
*** Yellow canary wrasse (Halichoeres chrysus)<br />
*** Melanarus wrasse (Halichoeres melanarus)<br />
*** Mixed reports of some species of dragonets and blennies<br />
* Salifert Flatworm eXit. A chemical treatment added to a tank targeting some species of flatworms. <br />
** This product is only effective against certain species. At 1.5x the recommended dose the moratality rates after 24 hours <ref name="ChemicalEradication-Discussion">[http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/4/aafeature2#section-23 Evaluation of Chemical Eradication Methods of Acoels (Acoelomorpha) From Marine Aquaria - Discussion]</ref>:<br />
*** Convolutrioba: 90%<br />
*** Waminoa: 10%<br />
*** H.. australis: 0%<br />
** Noted to be more effective at higher dosages but have a greater effect on other livestock<br />
** Noted to stun and sometime kill brittle stars, feather dusters, cerith snails and other delicate invertibrates.<br />
** The release of toxins by Convolutrioba is a serious threat to other livestock. Follow the manufacturer's instructions to mitigate. <br />
** 38% of aquarists in a survey lost livestock after using Flatworm Exit <ref name="ChemicalEradication-Discussion"/>. The source does not indicate if those 38% followed the recommended dosing protocol.<br />
** Multiple doses spread out across days or weeks is often recommended to ensure all offspring are killed.<br />
* Preventative measures when introducing new coral, live rock and substrate:<br />
** Shake in salt water to dislodge hitchhikers. <br />
** Manually remove visible flatworms. <br />
** Dip with CoralRx (effective against Convolutrioba, H. australis and Waminoa <ref name="ChemicalEradication-Discussion"/>).<br />
<br />
==References==<br />
<references/><br />
<br />
==External Links==<br />
[http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/4/aafeature2#section-5 Evaluation of Chemical Eradication Methods of Acoels (Acoelomorpha) From Marine Aquaria - Morphology of target species], Andrew H. Lynford M.S., Advanced Aquarist<br />
<br />
== See also ==<br />
*See [[Nematode]] for roundworms<br />
<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
[[Category:Live Food]] <br />
[[Category:Freshwater Food]]</div>Brianlowhttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Planaria&diff=71283Planaria2012-01-30T05:31:48Z<p>Brianlow: Moved content into Flatworm article</p>
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<div>#REDIRECT [[Flatworm]]</div>Brianlowhttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=File:H._Australis.jpg&diff=71280File:H. Australis.jpg2012-01-30T04:46:58Z<p>Brianlow: </p>
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<div>Photo believed to be Heterochaerus Australis but not confirmed.<br />
<br />
Photo owned by uploader: see [http://www.flickr.com/photos/brianlow/6729723899/sizes/l/in/photostream/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/brianlow/6729723899/sizes/l/in/photostream/].</div>Brianlowhttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=File:Convolutriloba_retrogemma.png&diff=71273File:Convolutriloba retrogemma.png2012-01-27T19:46:12Z<p>Brianlow: Permission obtained by User:Brianlow from http://morphologicstudios.com/</p>
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<div>Permission obtained by [[User:Brianlow]] from http://morphologicstudios.com/</div>Brianlowhttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=File:Waminoa_on_Plerogyra.jpg&diff=71268File:Waminoa on Plerogyra.jpg2012-01-27T06:29:10Z<p>Brianlow: From [http://flickr.com/photos/31119263@N00/234964461 Bubble Coral (Close up) 2.jpg] via Wikipedia [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Waminoa_on_Plerogyra.jpg Waminoa_on_Plerogyra.jpg]</p>
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<div>== Summary ==<br />
From [http://flickr.com/photos/31119263@N00/234964461 Bubble Coral (Close up) 2.jpg] via Wikipedia [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Waminoa_on_Plerogyra.jpg Waminoa_on_Plerogyra.jpg] <br />
== Licensing ==<br />
{{cc-by-3.0}}</div>Brianlowhttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=The_Aquarium_Wiki:General_chat&diff=71265The Aquarium Wiki:General chat2012-01-24T07:16:46Z<p>Brianlow: /* Database errors */</p>
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<div>== Stop Censorship ==<br />
The SOPA bill making its way through the US congress is a big deal for us. It would essentially allow anyone to shutdown our site by claiming we are illegally using their images. While those pushing the bill through are mostly the movie and music industry, the powers created in this bill do pose a threat to the internet as a whole, and more specifically us. While our audience isn't huge we still see a few thousand a visitors day. On Jan 18th many websites are going to 'black out' for the day in protest, I may choose to participate. I know this will cause you withdraw Cat, sorry. Your site won't be included. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 06:45, 13 January 2012 (CST)<br />
:How would they put that through when the internet is worldwide? Did the US forget they are not the whole world? Le sigh! --[[User:Catxx|Cat]] 15:29, 14 January 2012 (CST)<br />
::I'm not sure you have been paying attention for the past 10 years? Anyway this is a push from various industry groups and is happening in many countries in europe as well.--[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 06:25, 16 January 2012 (CST)<br />
<br />
== New Editor ==<br />
There is a new editor Wikipedia is trying out. See: http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:VisualEditorSandbox. Looks excellent. I wonder how it will work with templates. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 07:24, 14 December 2011 (CST)<br />
<br />
:It seems to need a lot of work still. I don't see any text cursor when I'm typing with FF 8.0 and the right-hand side icons are a mystery to me. Call me old-fashioned. But I'd like a Save page icon too. ;) --[[User:Quatermass|Quatermass]] 03:02, 15 December 2011 (CST)<br />
::+1 for a distinct Save button. I see a cursor with FF8... odd. Anyway they will be working on it for a while. But I would certainly like it for those quick typo fixes. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 07:05, 15 December 2011 (CST)<br />
<br />
== Botting ==<br />
I'm running pywikipedia bot looking for broken web-links. The bot will report the links as broken if they remain broken for at least as week. Don't forget to perodically disable the hide bots on the recent changes http://www.theaquariumwiki.com/index.php?title=Special:RecentChanges&hidebots=0<br />
<br />
Right now I will run the bot nightly and I'll eventually enable some other bot checks.<br />
<br />
--[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 20:56, 1 May 2011 (CDT)<br />
<br />
== Spammers ==<br />
Alright I've increased the anal retentativeness off the abuse filter. The following edits will be blocked, but the user won't be banned<br />
*Repeating characters 'Ahhhhhhhhhhh'<br />
*A summary that many of the bots use, which is a single word without spaces.<br />
*Blanking the page.<br />
If your in the auto-confirmed status (registered, we can set this to a number of edits or age if we need to) you are exempt from the rules.<br />
--[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 07:12, 25 April 2011 (CDT)<br />
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:Sweeeet, thanks! Hopefully that will stem the tide a little! --[[User:Catxx|Cat]] 08:00, 25 April 2011 (CDT)<br />
::Beh, back, we may need to disallow unregistered from removing more then 100 characters or something. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 20:49, 1 May 2011 (CDT)<br />
<br />
==Server move of 2011==<br />
Alright if you are seeing this you are on the new server! I am going to make a series of test edits (this being the first) to ensure everything has moved. Hopefully <br />
<br />
I ran into a few problems, and its 1:30 so VC and tank.theaquariumwiki.com is still on the old box... I will try to get it tomorrow since I have the bugs ironed out now. Let me know how the speed is, and if you find any bugs. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 00:41, 24 April 2011 (CDT)<br />
:Um the first edit failed, just making sure it works well the second time. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 00:42, 24 April 2011 (CDT)<br />
:I didn't enable analytics for the new server until just a few minutes ago so I could track how many people are using the new server. Since only 16 people visited the old site yesterday I am going to assume the new IP is resolving world-wide now. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 07:19, 25 April 2011 (CDT)<br />
::Nice work on the tech end! [[User:Huw Powell|Huw Powell]] 01:04, 26 April 2011 (CDT)<br />
:Thanks. I'm not going to transfer the http://tank.theaquariumwiki.com so some images may be broken, if you notice them we can still get the images from http://tankbak.theaquariumwiki.com. Eventually I'll take it down as well. Oh BTW VC should be moved over.--[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 21:00, 26 April 2011 (CDT)<br />
::Sweeet! I'll keep an eye out for broken piccies. --[[User:Catxx|Cat]] 06:50, 27 April 2011 (CDT)<br />
:http://tankbak.theaquariumwiki.com seems to not be working at the moment, I was going to move over some more pictures. --[[User:Catxx|Cat]] 07:05, 28 April 2011 (CDT)<br />
::Fixed --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 20:48, 1 May 2011 (CDT)<br />
<br />
==Initiation, name, and forum demise issue==<br />
I am starting this. We need a place to talk about the site, policies, and issues besides our user talk pages. For instance, I note the forum link is now dead (I barely joined!). Needs fix. Please feel free to rename this page with a more humorous name! [[User:Huw Powell|Huw Powell]] 00:24, 18 February 2011 (EST)<br />
:I'm looking at moving the site to a new location and we had been talking over e-mail to get some speed tests in new datacetners. Since Q and Cat are from across the pond (from my POV), international speed is a large deciding factor in where we get moved. We discussed shutting them down on here and I just got around to it today. Our fourms were never really active, and it sours our relationships with other communities because their administrators see us as competition. I would rather see us get a single fourm on another (or multiple) site as it would increase visibility. If you've got friends in high places any any other fishy forums let us know :) --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 08:08, 18 February 2011 (EST)<br />
::Eh, this is the only place I really started interacting as I started back into this, googling random stuff. I friends with excellent wiki-fu (writing extensions and such), though this place seems to be well-stocked with such skills. Although RW's up-and-down voting toy might be nice for reviews, etc. Feedback on speed - here in NH USA, this site has always loaded very quickly for me. [[User:Huw Powell|Huw Powell]] 23:04, 18 February 2011 (EST)<br />
:::Whats RW's? --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 07:48, 21 February 2011 (EST)<br />
::::Sorry, RationalWiki.org. [[User:Huw Powell|Huw Powell]] 23:21, 23 February 2011 (EST)<br />
<br />
==Interesting project==<br />
As some of you might remember, I am getting back into this as of 12/31/10 with a 75g tank. In my neighborhood, we have frequent power outages, some for quite some time. While I have a generator to back things up in emergencies, it is manually operated, meaning that if the power goes out while I am asleep (or away), the tank power goes down. My brother runs an e-waste operation, and as such has steady access to UPS systems with dead batteries.<br />
<br />
So I had him ship me one. The plan is to hook it up to a much bigger battery (about 55 aH) so it could run all night if necessary.<br />
<br />
Also, inspired by Marineland's fish store tank banks "feed" button - it turns off the filter(s) for about five minutes - I have looked into using a 555 timer IC to turn "off" a NC relay and will be getting parts to build shortly.<br />
<br />
The cool thing is how these two projects will work together - removing the little 1.8 aH battery from the UPS leaves big space. The 555 IC and relay, etc. will be happy running on 12 volts. So I will build the final version into the empty space in the UPS, and power it from the battery/12v rail. The UPS I have does about 250w, so it can run my filters and a smaller, backup heater. I plan to replace the "master" pair of outlets on the back with a GFCI, and let the filter timeout relay control the "slave" pair.<br />
<br />
Lights are not essential short-term, especially while I sleep, so they will not be on the system. Thoughts? [[User:Huw Powell|Huw Powell]] 22:37, 30 March 2011 (EDT)<br />
:I have thought about a similar project, my MS is in EE (but I'm not an electronics guy) so I'm thinking about stuff like this all the time. I however just use a souped up UPS to run the pump during a power outage. Like you said, lights are supplemental, I only run the main return pump from the sump, the protein skimmer and supplemental water flow devices get turned off.<br />
<br />
:Since the 55ah battery won't be in the UPS you are right that you will have a very nice place put your DIY gizmos. Take lots of pictures and make a log for the rest of us to see. I love DIY projects. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 09:01, 31 March 2011 (EDT)<br />
<br />
:Most UPS devices are designed to only keep a mains supply going for ~20mins max. and then switch off. So best to check this!<br />
:Far better I think is to use a car/leisure battery and an inverter to give you mains out. This way a typical car battery of say 55AH will give you 660W of power for 1 hour or 7 hours of ~100W with no time limit if you connect it to your car.<br />
:Radio Shack and Maplin sell complete devices for this purpose.<br />
:I get a couple of power cuts a year. They typically last 2-5 hours.<br />
: Large tanks take hours to drop in temperature in the average home. But each house is unique and needs to be tested.<br />
:My setup is a portable 200W battery inverter and as my filters only consume 50W, this has covered me.<br />
:--[[User:Quatermass|Quatermass]] 13:18, 31 March 2011 (EDT)<br />
::Indeed, hence my replacing the (dead) 1.7 aH battery in the UPS with a 55 aH (traffic light backup!) unit. It can get cold here - very cold, so I will want at least a supplemental heater on the UPS. In the news... today the power went out for 4.5 hours, while I slept, but the tank did not suffer. But it is still loaded very lightly (40 small fish in 75g). I will indeed take pictures and upload schematics and part numbers etc. when I get this thing rolling! [[User:Huw Powell|Huw Powell]] 23:00, 1 April 2011 (EDT)<br />
<br />
:::In my private chats with [[Dr. Tim Hovanec]] he told me the old wifes tale of the bacteria in your filter dying off in a couple of hours is incorrect. They go into a suspended state and some start consuming nitrate instead of oxygen. Sure a small portion goes off. But the majority survive when the filter turns back on after 4+ hours. :) --[[User:Quatermass|Quatermass]] 15:09, 2 April 2011 (EDT)<br />
::::Indeed, especially in fresh water, it takes a while for a catastrophic die-off to occur. However, there are two other issues - heat (it can get very cold in these parts), and especially when the tank is loaded more heavily, circulation for oxygenation. I'd rather be safe than sorry on these issues, and starting with a "free" (dead battery) UPS makes it fairly affordable.<br />
::::I was also curious where the best place to put articles on such DIY hardware would be. Mainspace with appropriate title? I expect to be working on both these projects in about a week or so when my Digikey order is in, and whenever my battery turns up. Thanks! [[User:Huw Powell|Huw Powell]] 19:55, 3 April 2011 (EDT)<br />
<br />
:::::PS, Do you have a way for your inverter to activate automatically? Or does it require a manual changeover? [[User:Huw Powell|Huw Powell]] 19:55, 3 April 2011 (EDT)<br />
<br />
:::::That was pretty easy.<br />
:::::The battery/inverter is on constant trickle charge. Ready for use.<br />
:::::I used a Mains powered relay that is connected to the real Mains 24/7. The relay is a 2 pole double throw affair in a plastic box with a mains socket on top. So the real Mains is feed through to a Mains socket I wired via the relay contacts.<br />
:::::When the Mains fails, the relay contacts drop and the Mains socket gets its power from the output of the inverter.<br />
:::::There is a momentary lose of power. But with a couple of surge protector components across the lines to protect against back EMF. It's been fine so far. <br />
<br />
:::::(Alternatively, power your essential pumps on inverter power constantly with the Mains charging the battery and powering the inverter. Then use a DC 12V relay energised 24/7 by the 12V to switch the inverter from 12V to battery feed when the Mains goes. Most UPS devices work this way. But it has obvious longterm disadvantages).<br />
<br />
:::::The only thing we have to watch is the current surge as filter motors start up. But if we over rate the inverter there shouldn't be a problem.<br />
:::::Also some cheap inverters give out a non-perfect Mains sinewave. This may cause some AC motors in pumps re-starting or running issues. My filters pumps all sound fine when on my inverter. But any odd sounds should be acted upon. --[[User:Quatermass|Quatermass]] 03:11, 4 April 2011 (EDT)<br />
::::::Most or all inverters and UPSs have very high levels of harmonic distortion. Can you write an article on your setup? I will be adding a couple-three DIY ones soon... would prefer to follow your lead as to style and naming. [[User:Huw Powell|Huw Powell]] 03:20, 7 April 2011 (EDT)<br />
::::::By the way, I also have a generator, so in protracted outages, or ones when I am awake, are taken care of manually. [[User:Huw Powell|Huw Powell]] 03:25, 7 April 2011 (EDT)<br />
<br />
::::::Would titles such as this be appropriate: [[DIY water change diffuser]], [[DIY power backup system]], [[DIY timed filter shutdown]]? Sadly, I hate all the phrasing I just used, but can't think of nuthin' better. The first one has been built and works and I am ready to write it. The other two await delivery from Digikey and Interstate Batteries for finalization. [[User:Huw Powell|Huw Powell]] 20:51, 10 April 2011 (EDT)<br />
:::::::Sounds as good as any other name to me, put em in a Articles -> DIY category. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 12:07, 11 April 2011 (EDT)<br />
::::::::Thanks, I will, soon. Obviously the people who run this place are free to move them if my titles suck. [[User:Huw Powell|Huw Powell]] 03:47, 12 April 2011 (EDT)<br />
<br />
And, doh, Q, I misread the part about your relay five times. Got it now. Your system is "hands free". [[User:Huw Powell|Huw Powell]] 02:06, 20 April 2011 (EDT)<br />
:Thanks for writing yours up, Q! [[DIY_Emergency Power Backup]] - having two routes to contemplate is so much better. I guess I should put some battery sizing and such math on mine too. Useful for USAians... [[User:Huw Powell|Huw Powell]] 20:50, 9 May 2011 (CDT)<br />
<br />
==CO2 and beer==<br />
Has anyone here heard of dual-hobbyists using beer production to deliver CO2 to planted tanks? The idea sounds like a win-win to me, but are there drawbacks? [[User:Huw Powell|Huw Powell]] 02:07, 20 April 2011 (EDT)<br />
:I can't really speak to how effect it is, but I essentially did that for my planted tank back in the day. I wouldn't drink the swill it produced tho. Yeast + Sugar = Alcohol after-all. The main issue I see is that it is not a constant delivery amount. But you will have so much fun consuming the end product you may not care. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 06:54, 25 April 2011 (CDT)<br />
::Well, that's the thing... CO2 can be done two ways - a tank from the welding supply place, or making it yourself with sugar and yeast. It occurred to me that the beer (or wine or cider...) making process releases CO2 just as well and the swill making process, so why not get something "useful" as a by-product? Oh, and the problem isn't so much a lack of "constant delivery" amount, as the difficulty in turning it "off" at night, which is trivial with a tank-based supply. But yeah, one wonders how much CO2 the beer produces, and I guess a solenoid valve or two could route the gas to a catch bottle at night or simply the atmosphere... [[User:Huw Powell|Huw Powell]] 22:32, 26 April 2011 (CDT)<br />
<br />
==Two issues==<br />
One, the pictures I uploaded have a weird subst that doesn't seem to work right for the copyright. <br />
<br />
Two, can I get you folks to put a link to this page on the main page, perhaps? <br />
<br />
Best regards, [[User:Huw Powell|Huw Powell]] 21:44, 11 May 2011 (CDT)<br />
<br />
<br />
Ah, that's because Brian hasn't made the routine for that particular subst.<br />
Sure I can do that link. --[[User:Quatermass|Quatermass]] 03:09, 12 May 2011 (CDT)<br />
:The license selector is a copy from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MediaWiki:Licenses, I'm not sure why the subst: name isn't working, it should be built into MediaWiki. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 09:07, 12 May 2011 (CDT)<br />
<br />
== Form ==<br />
Alright I've gone ahead and enabled the forms, on top of every fish page there should be a "Edit with form" tab. It will take a while to convert every page... but I have faith in Cat :) I'm running a bot right now to convert all the 1's to Yes so they work. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 21:02, 7 August 2011 (CDT)<br />
<br />
== Multi-selector properties ==<br />
So the semantic forms comes with the a nice arraymap function, so some properties allow multiple values. This only works in the Plant Data template for things like placement. Separate them by with a comma and they will both be there. Anything else we should let allow multiple values? --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 21:02, 7 August 2011 (CDT)<br />
<br />
Diet? --[[User:Quatermass|Quatermass]] 17:23, 8 August 2011 (CDT)<br />
:I thought about using it for the Flake/Pellet/Other etc, but the conversion from Yes/No would be a pain. Or did you mean Piscavore/Carnivore/Herbivore/Omnivore, except piscavore they are exclusive. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 19:21, 8 August 2011 (CDT)<br />
<br />
<br />
==New Users==<br />
Is it just me or is anyone else uneasy about all these new accounts being created. But not one of them is actually creating or altering content? Not even a single letter alteration or creating their own user page?<br />
<br />
How do we know they aren't just Bots? :) --[[User:Quatermass|Quatermass]] 14:58, 17 November 2011 (CST)<br />
:I am 100% certain they are. If you look at the logs for the abuse filter (http://www.theaquariumwiki.com/Special:AbuseFilter) most of them are hitting the link spamming filter and the edits are getting blocked. http://www.theaquariumwiki.com/index.php?title=Special:AbuseLog&wpSearchFilter=5 --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 15:03, 17 November 2011 (CST)<br />
<br />
Ah.. I'd forgotten about the Abuse Filter Log. Wow, it's taking a hammering isn't it? Makes rather interesting reading. I guess it's the price of being popular! <br />
Nice one Brian. :) --[[User:Quatermass|Quatermass]] 15:49, 17 November 2011 (CST)<br />
:Yep, if we can't stop them from signing up (I really hate uber difficult captchas), at least make it so we don't have to revert masses of edits. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 07:59, 21 November 2011 (CST)<br />
::If they are trying very often to upload links and the site is busy defending itself in the background, this could be very hard on CPU cycles... I've just been doing a little editing and such and have been getting a "this site has a problem" message as often as not - could be related? [[User:Huw Powell|Huw Powell]] 18:03, 17 December 2011 (CST)<br />
<br />
==The custom species header thing==<br />
<br />
I don't know what it's called, but the trick that turns [[Vallisneria gigantea]] into "Giant Vals (Vallisneria gigantea)" for example should be made to italicise the scientific name, shouldn't it? Oh, and hi folks, it's been a while since I dropped by! [[User:Huw Powell|Huw Powell]] 18:03, 17 December 2011 (CST)<br />
:Correct. Changes will propagate shortly. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 10:47, 19 December 2011 (CST)<br />
<br />
== Database errors ==<br />
Don't know if its just me, but I've had a few database errors on the site over the last few days. --[[User:Catxx|Cat]] 04:16, 21 December 2011 (CST)<br />
<br />
I was receiving "500 Internal Server error" for several minutes about 30 minutes ago [[User:Brianlow|Brian Low]] 17:46, 6 January 2012 (CST)<br />
<br />
The site is slow. At the moment roughly 8 seconds to view a page I've been to before. 20 seconds to view a Random Page. [[User:Brianlow|Brian Low]] 17:46, 6 January 2012 (CST)<br />
<br />
Just received "(Can't contact the database server: User thefishw_wiki already has more than 'max_user_connections' active connections (localhost))" [[User:Brianlow|Brian Low]] 14:25, 7 January 2012 (CST)<br />
<br />
Same error again. Searching the wiki is take between 2 - 15 seconds. The main page is taking 1 - 5 seconds to load. [[User:Brianlow|Brian Low]] 21:43, 8 January 2012 (CST)<br />
:Sorry about all the problems guys. I tried utilizing CloudFlare to manage our static content and reduce the server load but it just isn't helping much IMHO. The site is just to big for shared hosting (as you can see we are hitting out DB connection limit. I am probably going to have to move us out to a VPS (Managed this time). I'll contact the hosts to get stuff started asap --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 17:28, 9 January 2012 (CST)<br />
::If you see this your on the new server! Welcome back! --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 07:50, 12 January 2012 (CST)<br />
:::No need to apologize for providing a free service to the community. Looks better. Common pages are taking about a full second and random pages are taking 2 - 4 seconds. [[User:Brianlow|Brian Low]] 23:25, 12 January 2012 (CST)<br />
:::Have you considered a MediaWiki hosting service that is dedicated and specialized to ensuring the wiki is available, patched, secure, performant, backed up, etc...? [[User:Brianlow|Brian Low]] 23:29, 12 January 2012 (CST)<br />
::::Keeping it updated isn't really difficult. I typically only update when they have added cool new features. The new editor looks promising for quick touch-ups, spelling, etc. I your referring to places like Wikia, they approached us and asked us to move but we weren't really interested. We (I) do toy with internals for fun and do enjoy keeping the box. Not to mention I share the hosting with my own personal stuff, and I have run a lot of sites off-and-on. I think I will try a varnish cache again when I have time, but we need to let the new box settle in first. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 06:51, 16 January 2012 (CST)<br />
::::: Good to hear. The new visual editor does look good. [[User:Brianlow|Brian Low]] 01:16, 24 January 2012 (CST)<br />
<br />
== How do we request pages deletions? ==<br />
I'd like to remove (http://www.theaquariumwiki.com/Category:Ammonia/Rough_guide_to_toxic_levels_of_free_ammonia). I tried the wikipedia delete template. Thanks. [[User:Brianlow|Brian Low]] 14:27, 7 January 2012 (CST)<br />
:Hi Brian, wikipedia templates won't work here as we run a different wiki database. If you want something deleted leave a message for me or Quatermass/PsiPro and we'll do the deed, happy editing! --[[User:Catxx|Cat]] 15:11, 7 January 2012 (CST)<br />
::Thanks! [[User:Brianlow|Brian Low]] 01:09, 8 January 2012 (CST)</div>Brianlowhttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Quarantine&diff=71256Quarantine2012-01-13T21:57:40Z<p>Brianlow: </p>
<hr />
<div>==What is it?==<br />
Quarantine is a procedure where new livestock are kept in a physically separate aquarium system for a temporary period to adjust and inspect for disease and unwanted hitchhikers. The separate system is often a single tank referred to as a [[Quarantine Tank]].<br />
<br />
==Benefits==<br />
* Feed without competition. Transportation stresses often mean fish are reluctant to eat. <br />
* Regain health without harassment. Territorial fish may harass newcomers. <br />
* Prevent spread of disease, parasites and pathogens to existing livestock<br />
* Prophylactic treatment<br />
* Spot unwanted hitchhikers<br />
* Acclimate to destination tank<br />
<br />
==What to quarantine==<br />
* Ideally anything that may harbor disease, unwanted microorganisms or animals<br />
** fish<br />
** invertebrates<br />
** coral<br />
** live rock<br />
** even empty shells (may have worms or small animals hiding inside)<br />
<br />
==Setup==<br />
* filtration<br />
* bare bottom<br />
* hiding places<br />
* cover sides<br />
<br />
==Protocol==<br />
* separate tools and equipment<br />
* keeps lights off first day<br />
* time frame (2 * 4 weeks)<br />
* inspection<br />
* new animal = reset time frame<br />
* if disease is found sterilize equip<br />
<br />
==Alternatives==<br />
* obtain livestock from a reputable store<br />
* obtain livestock from a other hobbyists<br />
<br />
==Links==<br />
*[http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-10/sp/feature/index.php An Ounce of Prevention Worth a Pound of Cure: A Quarantine Tank for Everything]<br />
*[http://www.reefland.com/forum/marine-fish-care-health-disease-treatment/19255-fish-quarantine-process.html Fish Quarantine Process - Step by Step]<br />
*[http://www.wetwebmedia.com/quarinverts.htm Quarantine of Corals and Invertebrates]<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]</div>Brianlowhttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Quarantine_Tank&diff=71245Quarantine Tank2012-01-09T07:03:05Z<p>Brianlow: </p>
<hr />
<div>A physically separated tank or aquarium system that is dedicated to the [[quarantine]] of new livestock. <br />
<br />
* See [[Quarantine]] for more information.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]</div>Brianlowhttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Water_conditioners&diff=71238Water conditioners2012-01-09T06:17:14Z<p>Brianlow: added product Aquavitro alpha</p>
<hr />
<div>==What are they?==<br />
'''Water conditioners''' are an essential part of the aquarium hobby. While there are a great many different types of 'water conditioners', this article is about the use of those designed to remove chemicals from tap water.<br />
<br />
Tap water is where most hobbyists get their tank water and this is often treated by the water supplier to prevent harmful [[bacteria]] getting into the home.<br />
<br />
Two chemicals, [[chlorine]] and [[chloramine]], are used in the vast majority of cases to kill bacteria.<br />
<br />
It is important that you find out which one your local water supplier uses, as chloramine is harder to get rid off than chlorine.<br />
<br />
*Tip: Also ask them if they plan to switch to chloramine in the future. Most are.<br />
<br />
Once you've discovered the chemical type you need to choose the water conditioner which is right for you.<br />
Most conditioners can be separated into two types.<br />
<br />
#Those that remove chlorine and may say they breakup, neutralise or remove chloramine, but leave [[ammonia]] behind after breaking up chloramine.<br />
#Those that remove either of the two chemicals and also neutralise the [[ammonia]] caused by the break up of chloramine.<br />
<br />
If your tap water has [[chlorine]] you can use either of these.<br />
<br />
If you have [[chloramine]], then you need the second type. Here's why.<br />
<br />
Sadly not all conditioner manufacturers who make the first type tell their customers that they may also need to use a second product that neutralises the ammonia released from the breakup of chloramine.<br />
This often comes to light when the customer tests their water for the presence of [[ammonia]] and finds a high quantity in the water after a water change and they've added a water conditioner.<br />
<br />
==Chemicals used in conditioners==<br />
While some manufacturers keep their chemicals secret from their consumers, it is often stated in their safety sheet where they say what to do if someone accidentally swallowed a quantity of it.<br />
<br />
'''Sodium thiosulfate''' (Na2S2O3) <br />
:The most common chemical used in the industry to remove [[chlorine]] is [[sodium thiosulfate]] (sodium thiosulphate).<br />
<br />
:[[Chloramine]] is more difficult to remove as [[sodium thiosulphate]] will break chloramine into its two component parts and only remove the [[chlorine]]. The [[ammonia]] has to be removed by another chemical. Such chemicals are Aliphatic Amine salts, hydrosulfite salts or sodium hydroxymethane sulfinic acid.<br />
<br />
:Found in Mardel's MarChlor, Genesis <ref>[http://www.aq-products.com/AP%20MSDS%20Sheets/GENESIS%20GEC%20Issue%201%20.pdf AQUARIUM PRODUCTS MSDS– GENESIS #GEC MATERIAL DATA SAFETY SHEET ISSUE 1 16 August 2001]</ref> , and API Stress Coat<ref>[Goldstein, Joel (1985). U.S. Patent No. 4,500,510. Washington, DC: U.S. Patent and Trademark Office]</ref>.<br />
<br />
'''Sodium hydroxymethylsulfinate''' (CH3NaO3S)<br />
:Found in Tetra Aquasafe<ref>[Gunter, Ritter (1988) U.S. Patent No. 4,786,434. Washington, DC: U.S. Patent and Trademark Office]</ref>, and Bio-safe<ref>[http://householdproducts.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/household/brands?tbl=brands&id=13026001 Health and Safety Information on Household Products 26 September 2008 US Department of Health and Human Services]</ref>.<br />
<br />
'''Sodium hydroxymethanesulfonate''' <br />
:Sodium hydroxymethanesulfonate will detoxify both clorine and chloramine completely.<br />
<br />
:Found in AmQuel <ref>[http://www.novalek.com/kordon/articles/howamquelworks.htm AmQuel® - How It Works 2006 Kordon]</ref>, ClorAm-X <ref>[http://aquascienceresearch.com/cloram-x.html ClorAm-X® Ammonia, Chlorine & Chloramine Remover 2003 AquaScience Research Group, Inc.]</ref>, and Ultimate <ref>[http://aquascienceresearch.com/PDFs/ULTIMATEPDS.PDF ULTIMATE® FULL-FUNCTION WATER CONDITIONER AquaScience Research Group, Inc.]</ref>.<br />
<br />
'''Sodium hydrosulfite''' (Na2S2O4)<br />
:Found in Wardley ChlorOut <ref>[Tyler, Michael (2006) US Patent No. 6,989,109. Washington, DC: U.S. Patent and Trademark Office]</ref>. Sodium hydrosulfite, sodium dithionite or sodium hydrosulphite<br />
<br />
'''Monopotassium phosphate''' (KH2PO4)<br />
:Found in Wardley ChlorOut <ref>[Tyler, Michael (2006) US Patent No. 6,989,109. Washington, DC: U.S. Patent and Trademark Office]</ref>.<br />
<br />
'''Sodium formaldehydebisulfite'''<br />
:Found in ClorAm-X <ref>[http://aquascienceresearch.com/cloram-x.html ClorAm-X® Ammonia, Chlorine & Chloramine Remover 2003 AquaScience Research Group, Inc.]</ref> and Ultimate2 <ref>[http://aquascienceresearch.com/PDFs/ULTIMATEPDS.PDF ULTIMATE® FULL-FUNCTION WATER CONDITIONER AquaScience Research Group, Inc.]</ref>.<br />
<br />
'''Formaldehyde sodium bisulfite'''<br />
:Found in ClorAm-X <ref>[http://aquascienceresearch.com/cloram-x.html ClorAm-X® Ammonia, Chlorine & Chloramine Remover 2003 AquaScience Research Group, Inc.]</ref> and Ultimate <ref>[http://aquascienceresearch.com/PDFs/ULTIMATEPDS.PDF ULTIMATE® FULL-FUNCTION WATER CONDITIONER AquaScience Research Group, Inc.]</ref>.<br />
<br />
==Additives==<br />
Many conditioner companies try to promote their brand over another by adding extra chemicals that claim to do something extra for your money.<br />
<br />
===Chelating metals===<br />
They add a chemical (usually tetrasodium [[EDTA]]) that renders any dissolved metals that may be in the water into a harmless type. This is actually a useful additive as tap water quality varies enormously across the world and some people have their tap water coming from a local well which possibly has a low level of iron, copper, or zinc in it. This may be safe for people to drink, but may be too high a level for their aquatic pets.<br />
<br />
*See [[chelated]].<br />
<br />
*See [[metal poisoning]].<br />
<br />
===Nitrate or nitrite removers===<br />
Some companies add chemicals which also remove these two troublesome chemicals. This is a useful additive, but a correctly [[cycled]] tank, with proper, regular water changes, or a planted aquarium should never require the forced removal of these. Best kept for an emergency.<br />
<br />
===Slime coat protection===<br />
These are various chemicals, some natural, and others not, that claim to add a protective layer around the fish skin. Some aquarists say it may cover the fishes gills and reduce the animals ability to breathe.<br />
In any case, the animal is perfectly able to provide its own mucus to cover any possible wounds on its body.<br />
Typical chemicals are Allantoin (Comfrey plant extract) or aloe vera.<br />
<br />
===Aloe vera===<br />
There are no studies as to how or if aloe vera works or doesn't work with aquatic life. Some people suggest that it may hurt fish. Others say it just doesn't help. And still others say it helps promote healing of fish wounds. The debate will most likely continue until proper studies are done and published.<br />
<br />
In humans aloe vera has been topically applied to promote healing of sunburns, burns, and minor cuts for many years. Internally it can be used as a laxative <ref>[http://nccam.nih.gov/health/aloevera/ Aloe Vera]</ref> Other uses in humans that still need further study include treatment of herpes, psoriasis, dandruff, and possibly lung cancer <ref>[http://www.mayoclinic.com/health/aloe-vera/NS_patient-aloe Mayo Clinic-Aloe (Aloe vera)]</ref>.<br />
<br />
===Electrolytes===<br />
Electrolytes are formed when a salt is placed into water. This will alter the [[osmotic pressure]] of the water and provides a similar effect as adding a quantity of normal everyday [[salt]] to the tank water.<br />
<br />
Common salt is sometimes added in low amounts to a tank to reduce stress on an aquatic animal moving from one water type to another or to improve the uptake of oxygen by the gills of a fish if the animal is ill. Why you need to buy an expensive variation of common salt is not given. Also not explained is why you need to stress your non-ill fish by altering the water chemistry (osmosic pressure) of the tap water they are probably already used to. Perhaps useful if your animal is ill. But ordinary salt is far cheaper.<br />
<br />
It must me mentioned that most common table salt has iodine added to it for human health reasons. Do not add this to your aquarium. Kosher salt or sea salt, with no additives, is the preferred treatment if one really needs to use salt in a freshwater aquarium.<br />
<br />
===Anti-bacterial agent===<br />
Some conditioners add a bactericide. The thinking goes along the lines that you've performed a water change and therefore there may be bad bacteria churned up from the substrate.<br />
One such chemical added is often [[formaldehyde]]. When we go to so much trouble to make sure our aquariums have a healthy bacterial filter, one might wonder why some products may be designed to kill it off.<br />
<br />
===Fluorine agent===<br />
This is claimed to remove the chemical fluorine. This chemical is often present in tap water in the ionic form '''fluoride''' which is used to decrease tooth decay in people. No evidence has been found that fluoride is harmful to aquatic animals at the normal dosages (0.7-1,2ppm) from tap water.<br />
<br />
===Herbal extracts===<br />
Herbal extracts are getting more popular over the last few years, unfortunately not enough studies have been done as to exactly how or if they work on fish or other aquatic life. These ingredients are thought to be introduced because of the rise of homeopathic "medicine" and other non-scientific approaches to healing.<br />
<br />
*See [[Pimafix]] and [[Melafix]]<br />
<br />
==Chlorine removers==<br />
Typical chlorine only removers are:<br />
<br />
*[http://www.seachem.com/products/conditioners.html Seachem] - ChlorGuard<br />
*[http://www.kentmarine.com/freshwater/conditioners/ Kent] - Betta Bowl Essential<br />
*[[Interpet]] - Gold Tap Safe<br />
<br />
==Chlorine and chloramine removers==<br />
*These leave ammonia behind after any chloramine is 'removed'. They are mostly based on [[sodium thiosulfate]].<br />
*[http://aquariumpharm.com/Products/Product.aspx?ProductID=46API API] - Tap water conditioner<br />
*[http://www.novalek.com/kordon/ Kordon] - NovAqua<br />
*[http://www.novalek.com/kordon/ Kordon] - NovAqua+<br />
*[http://www.waterlife.co.uk/waterlife/fwadd.htm Waterlife] - Haloex<br />
*[http://www.kentmarine.com/freshwater/conditioners/ Kent] - Chlorinex<br />
*[http://www.hagen.com/uk/aquatic/sub_category.cfm?CAT=1&SUBCAT=121 Nutrafin] - Aquaplus<br />
*[http://www.junglelabs.com/ Jungle Lab] - Start Right, Ammonia Clear Tank Buddies, Bag Buddies Fish Bag Tabs, Blue Holdex, Insto Chlor.<br />
*[http://www.hartz.com/Our%20Products/Browse.asp Wardley] - Essentials Chlor Out<br />
<br />
==Chlorine, chloramine and ammonia removers==<br />
*They remove all three chemicals or convert the chemicals into harmless versions.<br />
<br />
*[http://aquariumpharm.com/ API] - [http://aquariumpharm.com/Products/Product.aspx?ProductID=43 Stress Coat] (latest version does (middle to end of 2007), older ones don't).<br />
*[http://www.seachem.com/products/conditioners.html Seachem] - AmGuard, Safe, [[Prime]]<br />
*[http://www.novalek.com/kordon/ Kordon] - [http://www.novalek.com/kordon/amquel/ AmQuel], [[AmQuel Plus|AmQuel+]], EZ4U, BettaTabs, GoldfishTabs.<br />
*[[Interpet]] - Gold Fish Safe (removes ammonia)<br />
*[http://www.kentmarine.com/freshwater/conditioners/ Kent] - Ammonia Detox<br />
*[http://www.tetra-fish.com/catalog/category.aspx?id=70 Tetra] - AquaSafe, Ammonia Detox<br />
*[http://www.marineland.com/products/mllabs.asp Marineland Labs] - Bio-Safe ([http://web.archive.org/web/20060108203041/http://www.marineland.com/products/mllabs.asp Archived link])<br />
*[http://www.hagen.com/uk/aquatic/sub_category.cfm?CAT=1&SUBCAT=121 Nutrafin] - Goldfish Bowl Conditioner.<br />
*[http://www.junglelabs.com/ Jungle Lab] - Ammonia Chloramine Eliminator (ACE),<br />
*[http://www.hartz.com/Our%20Products/Browse.asp Wardley] - 3 in 1 Water Conditioner<br />
*[http://www.aquavitro.com/ Aquavitro] - alpha<br />
<br />
== References ==<br />
<references/><br />
<br />
==Links==<br />
*[http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/docs/water/conditioners.shtml Skeptical Aquarist] on Conditioners.<br />
*[http://www.thetropicaltank.co.uk/rev-cond.htm The Tropical Tank ] - Water Conditioners and Dechlorinators review (last updated 2003).<br />
*[http://vm.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/dspltr06.html FDA Advises Dietary Supplement Manufacturers to Remove Comfrey Products From the Market]<br />
*[[w:Allantoin|Allantoin]] by Wikipedia<br />
<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
[[Category:Products]]<br />
[[Category:Water conditioners]]</div>Brianlowhttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Talk:TAN&diff=71231Talk:TAN2012-01-08T19:16:03Z<p>Brianlow: </p>
<hr />
<div>Should this page be reduced to just a short description and the remainder merged into the [[Ammonia]] topic? There is some duplicated content and I think the Ammonia page is a good place to cover the relationship between free ammonia, ammonium and total ammonia.<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
I see nothing wrong with leaving it as is.<br />
<br />
TAN is a separate glossary term and a quick description may be all that someone wants. If they want to learn more, the link to the Ammonia page is there. :) <br />
<br />
P.S. please leave your signature in any discussion statement otherwise visitors have no idea who said that. :)<br />
<br />
--[[User:Quatermass|Quatermass]] 04:45, 8 January 2012 (CST)<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
I had already edited it to remove some of the duplicate content. Check the history to see if appropriate. [[User:Brianlow|Brian Low]] 13:11, 8 January 2012 (CST)</div>Brianlowhttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Talk:Ammonia&diff=71229Talk:Ammonia2012-01-08T19:07:24Z<p>Brianlow: /* Deleting of links */</p>
<hr />
<div>== Deleting of links ==<br />
<br />
If you find a dead link, then best to see if it is archived at [http://www.archive.org/ Wayback machine] first and use that link instead. Second, see if another site has it listed and that way we don't lose important information.<br />
<br />
--[[User:Quatermass|Quatermass]] 04:42, 8 January 2012 (CST)<br />
<br />
Sounds good [[User:Brianlow|Brian Low]] 13:07, 8 January 2012 (CST)</div>Brianlowhttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Talk:Aquascaping&diff=71222Talk:Aquascaping2012-01-08T07:55:30Z<p>Brianlow: /* Hot Water... */</p>
<hr />
<div>Some granite might be "deadly to fish due to slight radioactivity"... Oh come on. Yes, granite yields a slightly higher background level of radiation (I should know, I live in granite central), and radon filtering up through it is an issue in such areas. But is someone claiming it causes cancer in fish now??? No matter how much or how little granite I put in my aquarium, it is still sitting on top of a few trillion tons of granite. Should I have lined the floor with lead before setting up the tank? [[User:Huw Powell|Huw Powell]] 04:41, 8 March 2011 (EST)<br />
<br />
== Hot Water... ==<br />
<br />
I'm no expert, but radioactive rock does affect DNA development of young cells. So in theory it may cause all kinds of minor mutations not just cancer in fry.<br />
<br />
Mind you, water is also a great absorber of low level radioactively too. They use it to cool and to create a barrier to U. waste.<br />
<br />
I doubt anyone has done any scientific tests on ornamental fish though... ;-)<br />
<br />
Aberdeen is the most _natural_ radioactive city in the world as most buildings are based on Granite. <br />
Maybe we need to ask an aquarist from that city? ;-)<br />
<br />
But yes, the article needs altering.<br />
<br />
--[[User:Quatermass|Quatermass]] 06:55, 7 April 2011 (EDT)<br />
:Yeah, you're no expert. You're just making it up as you go along. And as I said, I live on top of Granite Central (New England) You can make all sorts of stuff up in "theory" if you want. [[User:Huw Powell|Huw Powell]] 02:01, 9 April 2011 (EDT)<br />
::The background level due to (massive) amounts of granite is higher indeed. IIRC it's 2 or 3 times higher than other areas (and still very minimal). [[User:Huw Powell|Huw Powell]] 20:55, 10 April 2011 (EDT)<br />
:::I am not an expert either, but I have worked at nuclear power plants and have had radiation training and read lots of books and articles about radiation of all types from all sources. That said, I would put ''any'' granite into any tank without fearing for my fish's lives. Yes, ''some'' radiation and radon gas will come out of the granite, but it will add at most about 5% to the background radiation which is not nearly enough to kill anything. [[User:Jake4d|Jake4d]] 22:14, 1 January 2012 (CST)<br />
<br />
Seems like this discussion should be resolved by this wiki's policy on differing opinions. Without references, both side of this argument are just opinion. What is the policy? [[User:Brianlow|Brian Low]] 01:55, 8 January 2012 (CST)<br />
<br />
== Why so aggressive? ==<br />
<br />
Your comments are coming across as quite rude and aggressive. Please stop it.<br />
--[[User:Quatermass|Quatermass]] 04:42, 9 April 2011 (EDT)<br />
:Who are you talking to? [[User:Huw Powell|Huw Powell]] 20:56, 10 April 2011 (EDT)<br />
<br />
:: You. Your responses aren't phrased in the most polite of manners, quite puts other people off from responding to be honest. Hence I have not entered into discussions. Life is too short to get your knickers in a twist over website articles. --[[User:Catxx|Cat]] 08:34, 11 April 2011 (EDT)<br />
:::Indeed. Can someone please somehow teach people here how to respond to talk page comments? Starting a new section makes it utterly unclear. Also, QM has responded to me in rather aggressive and even obnoxious ways from time to time - and doesn't really take criticism well, from what I have seen. Luckily, you and that other person who signs as one name and uses another have been most welcoming. [[User:Huw Powell|Huw Powell]] 03:50, 12 April 2011 (EDT)<br />
::::Excellent use of the word knickers :) FYI If you go into your "My preferences" tab you can change your default signature, my username is PsiPro but my name is Brian :) --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 08:20, 12 April 2011 (EDT)<br />
:::::Yes, you! While I wholeheartedly approve of complicated username/signature games, it was weird for me to realize that the five people on here were only three ;). It might make more sense the 'crats who run the place to keep "ID"ing them simple. Keep in mind that RC, watchlist, etc. list you by your handle, not your sig. [[User:Huw Powell|Huw Powell]] 23:42, 12 April 2011 (EDT)<br />
<br />
== Could we have more articles like this? ==<br />
<br />
Hi all, I am just getting back into the hobby after 20yrs and would like to see more articles like this. (Maybe a list of good books on the topic with reviews?). I only have a single 10gal tank now that I added too many fish to so I have to clean it and do partial water changes multiple times a week, but I am planning a larger (40-60gal) freshwater tank and could use any help, advise, etc. [[User:Jake4d|Jake4d]] 22:20, 1 January 2012 (CST)<br />
<br />
:Hi Jake, was there any particular aspect of it you would like to read about in more detail? For planted tanks there are plenty of planted-tank-specific websites and forums out there, where the true plant geeks live. Or was it more the design aspect? Or something else? --[[User:Catxx|Cat]] 07:08, 3 January 2012 (CST)</div>Brianlowhttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=TAN&diff=71209TAN2012-01-07T20:09:43Z<p>Brianlow: Remove content duplicated from Ammonia article. Leave short description of term here.</p>
<hr />
<div>==What does it mean?==<br />
'''TAN''' stands for Total Ammonia Nitrogen or just Total Ammonia (TA). Total ammonia is a measure of the concentration of free ammonia (NH3) and ammonium (NH4+) in water. The term is used when it is important to identify the type ammonia being measured as the term [[ammonia]] may refer to free ammmonia, ammonium or total ammonia. Ammonia test kits vary as to which forms of ammonia they test for. This is important because free ammonia is significantly more toxic than ammonium.<br />
<br />
See [[Ammonia]] for more details.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]</div>Brianlowhttps://www.theaquariumwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Talk:Main_Page&diff=71206Talk:Main Page2012-01-06T23:34:47Z<p>Brianlow: added sig</p>
<hr />
<div>Hey you two. I'm sure you both noticed my most recent modification to the template. Since our best traffic comes from these kinda web2.0 networking sites, I've added a quick bookmark this button to the site to try to promote people to share the site. Not sure if its in the best location I figured it should be somewhere prominent, I was thinking floated right next to the main header, but when it was there I didn't notice it. Any suggestions? Don't like the idea feel free to tell me :). --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 23:50, 12 January 2008 (CST)<br />
----<br />
maybe put it on the right hand side rather than left? --[[User:Catxx|Cat]] 09:28, 13 January 2008 (CST)<br />
<br />
<br />
----<br />
I agree with Catxx, right side.<br />
<br />
Also since we're talking about the look of a page. Do you guys feel that the Contents box is making the pages look messy and empty, even when set to hide? See random page [[Toxotes jaculatrix]] as an example.<br />
Personally it would look at lot better if it was top right.<br />
<br />
BTW Brian did you see my note about the categorize template?<br />
<br />
--[[User:Quatermass|Quatermass]] 11:16, 13 January 2008 (CST)<br />
----<br />
i agree about the contents box, may look better if it's further up, but do you not mean top left so it matches up along the top with the information box? --[[User:Catxx|Cat]] 11:26, 13 January 2008 (CST)<br />
----<br />
Hey, I moved the bookmark button to the right hand side. For the contents box, you can remove it by includeing <br />
<pre><br />
__NOTOC__<br />
</pre><br />
in the file. I will see what I can do about moving it farther up. One thing I would like to do is move the Fish Data template to the bottom of the pages, that way on a search the users doesn't see the template syntax in the results. I'll look into it after my lab report tonight. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 12:05, 13 January 2008 (CST)<br />
----<br />
<br />
== Changes 10/14 ==<br />
===Overall===<br />
The standard template system was revamped to make life easier to maintain. This is a COMPLETE rework of the display logic.<br />
<br />
===Goal of Changes ===<br />
My secret :) I just want SMW Data on more of the pages.<br />
<br />
===General Template Changes===<br />
The profile boxes now change colors and potentially background based on fish/plant and fresh/saltwater. (If we don't like this we can change it)<br />
<br />
I know the black used for the freshwater isn't great... but aquarium pictures don't fade out like open water pictures. If anyone can find properly licensed photos that will look better let me know.<br />
<br />
=== [[Template:Fish Data]] ===<br />
*Added the |temperament parameter. Understood values are:<br />
**Peaceful (p,peaceful)<br />
**Semi-Aggressive (sa, semi-aggressive)<br />
**Aggressive (a, aggressive)<br />
**Highly Aggressive (ha, highly aggressive)<br />
<br />
=== [[Template:Invert Data]] ===<br />
*Just a wraper for the Fish Data template, it simply changes all refereces from fish to invertebrate.<br />
**You could get the same effect by adding '|type=i' to the Fish Data template, but using {{invert data}} will be more portable<br />
<br />
=== [[Template:Coral Data]] ===<br />
*Updated tempalte to work with new template system and SMW.<br />
*All old [[Template:Coral Profile]] pages are out of date<br />
<br />
=== [[Template:Plant Data]] ===<br />
*Updated tempalte to work with new template system and SMW.<br />
*All old [[Template:Plant Profile]] pages are out of date<br />
<br />
===There are bound to be problems===<br />
Let me know. I'll be removing the DB_COMMIT plugin, so if you see that text pop up let me know.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
==Bookmarks are for marks==<br />
Bookmarks. One key. Lynx. Bookmark [P]age or [L]ink? If I use just about anyone else's browser, their favourites will be empty or full of microsoft junk that I remove, because I can reach it from elsewhere in their OS. If they were suckered into version seven, then they won't even be able to change their startup page. Those were the days. Lynx over shell. I can get it for windows, but it simply ''can't'' be as peppy over PoinToPoint, nor do I hav a local newserver, anymore.<br />
<br />
Your bookmarks script is a pop-up. I disable pop-ups by default and allow them for specific sites. I won't bother making it permanent, because I hav no idea what might make those sites popular. Give me a clue on a separate page, and I might check it out. Some people hav an empty favourites jar on their computer because I removed the Micro$oft junk from it.<br />
<br />
If a job isn't worth doing, then it isn't worth doing well.<br />
[mailto:brewhaha@ecn.ab.ca (780) 472-7827].<br />
----<br />
The bookmark code is addthis.com, its not for adding the bookmark to your browsers its for submitting pages to social networking sites. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 10:51, 6 May 2008 (CDT)<br />
----<br />
<br />
== Thinking about an API ==<br />
Hey guys, <Br><br />
I have been thinking about creating an pseudo API for the site. Essentially taking the data sent to the profile variables and storing it/updating it in a database. Then giving out read-only database access to anyone really. Two reasons for doing this: <br />
<ol><br />
<li> I'm all for making our information more public for the purposes of education<br />
<li>With all the stuff in a more accessible / readable database, it would be easier to search for something specific (aka we can make an actual fish search, rather then the article search).<br />
<li>As of late I've been hired to make a few facebook applications, I figure I can make something cool if I can figure out a name.<br />
</ol><br />
<br />
Any thoughts?<br />
--[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 06:27, 2 February 2008 (CST)<br />
----<br />
I think it's called a guest shell account with tight access to structured query language: GSAWTATSQL, or maybe "Jee i SAW a TAT Serving Queries on Land in the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/citadel citadel]"<br />
[mailto:brewhaha@ecn.ab.ca (780) 472-7827]<br />
----<br />
For the purposes of duplicating this site, its entirely possible to give a user non-write access to the database, and the same goes for mirrors. However I had something different in mind. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 10:48, 6 May 2008 (CDT)<br />
----<br />
ooo i don't fully understand but the words sound good!--[[User:Catxx|Cat]] 06:51, 2 February 2008 (CST)<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
Sounds like a nice idea Brian, <br />
It may have slipped your mind, but have you looked at the 'Template:Categorize' yet?<br />
The temperature section is still not working.<br />
I can't see what is wrong with it.<br />
--[[User:Quatermass|Quatermass]] 08:10, 2 February 2008 (CST)<br />
----<br />
<br />
==Upgrading==<br />
FYI To all...<br />
<br />
I will be upgrading my dedicated server soon to a faster and larger box. This site will be one of the first to be sent over for various reasons. There shouldn't really be any down time, but you never know. Just giving fair warning.<br />
--[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 14:05, 2 May 2008 (CDT)<br />
----<br />
Nice. I've been carrying out regular weekly backups of the site every Saturday.<br />
<br />
--[[User:Quatermass|Quatermass]] 14:14, 2 May 2008 (CDT)<br />
----<br />
I know I get e-mails every time about a suspicious process every time :)<br />
<br />
--[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 14:45, 2 May 2008 (CDT)<br />
----<br />
Attempt 1 last night... failed. Trying again tomorrow (night)<br />
--[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 01:14, 3 May 2008 (CDT)<br />
----<br />
In that case I'll start backing up key articles.<br />
[[User:Jourdy288|Jourdy288]] 10:33, 6 May 2008 (CDT)<br />
----<br />
The transfers has been done. Thanks for the concern. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 10:39, 6 May 2008 (CDT)<br />
<br />
<br />
== BREEDING ==<br />
<br />
Could we have a link to the main breeding page please :-) what does eveyone think? [[User:Adam2307|Adam2307]] 10:28, 26 May 2008 (CDT)<br />
<br />
there is a link in the "aquarium guides" section. there's only so many links that can be in the navigation section, too many will be mind boggling. --[[User:Catxx|Cat]] 12:35, 26 May 2008 (CDT)<br />
----<br />
<br />
== The Great Server Transfer of 2009 ==<br />
<br />
So I tired to make the transfer last night, got the content and last night's database over there but then other shit went nuts.... so I'll be trying again in a few days.<br />
<br />
--[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 01:25, 19 September 2009 (UTC)<br />
<br />
So I moved a bit faster then I thought. Let me know if you find any problems. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 14:26, 19 September 2009 (UTC)<br />
<br />
----<br />
My FTP access to the site no longer works. :-)<br />
--[[User:Quatermass|Quatermass]] 16:58, 19 September 2009 (UTC)<br />
----<br />
Oh that, I havn't installed the ftp server as I am doing it all via ssh. I'll e-mail you and we can set it up. (I don't remember the password). Or if you prefer ssh let me know.<br />
--[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 17:49, 19 September 2009 (UTC)<br />
<br />
So I have figured out why the kernel keeps panicking, the httpd instances are not dying when they are supposed to so it is causing out of memory issues. Sorry for the downtime. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 22:38, 9 October 2009 (UTC)<br />
<br />
I think I found and disabled the error. Should be good now *crosses finger* --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 00:59, 12 October 2009 (UTC)<br />
<br />
== Announcements, changes, and errors ==<br />
So first thing first. ImageMagik (The program that makes thumbnails) is having issues and causing the server to crash while its making thumbnails. The guys in the wikimedia irc channel gave me a patch, but that just made it crash faster. Until they get online today I'll just keep an eye on it.<br />
<br />
So, I upgraded the MW install, and with that comes a nice and fun new functionality. Previously the <nowiki>{{DISPLAYTITLE:<title>}}</nowiki> would change the title of the page displayed to the user, but only change case. It was used for making the page PH titled pH. Now it can be used to completely change the display title.<br />
<br />
[[Template:Fish Data]] now changes the page title to ''Common name (Scientific name)''. This change is mostly to help search engines and people identify the page contents. Overall it should help the search functionality on the site. If common name or sci. name are left blank in the template the default behavior should be used.<br />
<br />
This change doesn't effect the way you link to a page, or the way its identified in the back end. It is strictly a cosmetic change.<br />
<br />
Comments? Questions?<br />
<br />
--[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 14:24, 27 January 2010 (UTC)<br />
:So I'm going to do some updating of the template system again. Should be little to no changes to the visual aspect, I just want to make stuff easier to maintain. If/when I break something let me know. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 16:05, 27 January 2010 (UTC)<br />
:Alright so the goal of this current template change is to make the Fish Data template used for everything, just changing the |type=?? will have it change all of the appropriate references. Right now the following types are recognized (followed by the keywords that are recognized)<br />
*Fish - f<br />
*Plant - p<br />
*Coral - c<br />
*Amphibian - a/amphibian<br />
:Should I add more? The ultimate goal would be to use the same template for every page, making it easier to update. I'm going to work on misc stuff as well today. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 16:32, 27 January 2010 (UTC)<br />
<br />
== Constant Crashing Issue ==<br />
<br />
Alright I'm still fairly sure the issue is IM, unfortunately since I can't reproduce the error its really hard to diagnose. I decreased the memory limit to 50M per PHP instance. That won't fix the constant crashing issue, it should just prolong it. I need to catch one in the act and get a stack trace going on it.<br />
<br />
On vacation, I'll be back at home in a week or so.<br />
<br />
--[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 00:49, 11 May 2010 (UTC)<br />
<br />
I've been rebooting the server every few days and it seems to be when images are uploaded as far as I can guess.<br />
I guess you've looked at the memory requirements of mediawiki and follow their guidelines?<br />
<br />
--[[User:Quatermass|Quatermass]] 08:49, 12 May 2010 (UTC)<br />
<br />
So I have made a small change meant to reduce the damage of downtime, and increase the speed overall. I installed a varnish server on ip 67.23.23.185, this server sits between our users and the workhorse webserver. It caches all requests to the site, and serves them if it can without bothering apache.<br />
<br />
My main reasons for installing it<br />
*When the site goes down, it will continue serving pages, currently the cache is 5GB, so it should be able to serve the entire site from the cache to anon users.<br />
*Its much, much faster when the pages are in the cache, when they are not its not noticeably slower.<br />
<br />
The user can't have any cookies from the site, other then the google analyics cookies. This means anyone using the fourms, or who is logged in won't be served cached pages.<br />
<br />
Pages *SHOULD* auto-purge when they are edited.....<br />
--[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 03:08, 15 May 2010 (UTC)<br />
<br />
<br />
Very nice.<br />
Seems to work too. From the UK side of the pond the site definitely seems quicker when I don't log in!<br />
So if the main server goes down, I'll not notice until I try to edit a page or log in right?<br />
--[[User:Quatermass|Quatermass]] 15:07, 15 May 2010 (UTC)<br />
<br />
Correct, and we could potentially add a cache over on that side of the pond for speed. And to answer your question, sorta. If your logged in you are served all 'fresh' pages. You can tell whats getting sent from the cache and whats getting sent as fresh by downloading a addon to snoop on headers (https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/3829/), Look for the header: "X-Cache: MISS<br />
" or "X-Cache: HIT", a hit is content served from the cache and a miss is content served from the backend.<br />
<br />
If there are ANY cookies (if you visit the forums it sets extra cookies) other then the google analytics cookies you will always get content from the cache (so clear your cookies). We could fix this by moving the forums to something like fourms.theaquariumwiki.com, since the cookies are not shared. There may also be an option to turn cookies off in SMF. <br />
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Not all the content is currently being cached, namely the stylesheets and most images. I need to investigate why but for now if the backend goes down the content will be delivered and about half the styles. You can test it by rebooting the server and checking out the main page. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 23:56, 15 May 2010 (UTC)<br />
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:Updated: All of the images should now be served from the cache, as well as all of the stylesheets / Js... so the site should be fully browsable by a non-logged in user if the backend goes down. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 06:07, 20 May 2010 (UTC)<br />
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<br />
Great.<br><br />
I've got a script running on my PC monitoring the site for downtime every 2 hours. So I can reset it quickly if need be. --[[User:Quatermass|Quatermass]] 15:31, 20 May 2010 (UTC)<br />
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==New Look Wikipedia==<br />
I see Wiki's had a major facelift I guess a major upgrade of MediaWiki will be needed to get this ourself?<br />
--[[User:Quatermass|Quatermass]] 15:09, 15 May 2010 (UTC)<br />
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Correct, Its not so much a major upgrade, just the incremental upgrade. I think Mediawiki releases once a quarter, next upgrade we can have access to the new layout. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 23:47, 15 May 2010 (UTC)<br />
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I will be updating a bunch of extensions & the main MW software soon, it may or may not have the new skin :) --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 15:27, 7 June 2010 (UTC)<br />
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The wiki is upgraded to 1.16, this counts as my test edit. I'll look into the new skin soon. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 17:57, 31 July 2010 (EDT)<br />
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Look updated, you can change it back (or to another one) by editing your account preferences. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 19:23, 1 August 2010 (EDT)<br />
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::I don't know how much of a pain it would be, but would it be possible to update VC too? Don't know when the last time it had a wiki update was. Thanks! --[[User:Catxx|Cat]] 17:12, 2 August 2010 (EDT)<br />
:::I'm going out of town tomrrow, but remind me on Monday and i will take care of it. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 13:54, 5 August 2010 (EDT)<br />
=== New Look, New Template? ===<br />
So a while back I was trying to upgrade the look of the Fish_Data template, I'm going to take another crack at it with this new layout an would love any input :) --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 13:54, 5 August 2010 (EDT)<br />
<br />
== Database Objectcache crash ==<br />
<br />
Last night the objectcache table crashed. It is not the first time its done this. Unfortunately, or fortunately, the table is crashing because it is using MyISAM, which has poor concurrency support. The fix for this would be for me or Q to log-in and 'repair' the database (it only takes a few seconds). These errors occur because of high traffic and just bad luck. I am looking into converting the DB to something that has better support for concurrency (Innodb) but the conversion looks to be a handful.<br />
--[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 19:13, 14 June 2010 (UTC)<br />
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== Forum ==<br />
<br />
"Our forum can be found here." No it can't, can someone with the appropriate rights to edit fix this? Kthxbai :) [[User:Huw Powell|Huw Powell]] 03:14, 12 March 2011 (EST)<br />
:Done --[[User:Catxx|Cat]] 12:29, 12 March 2011 (EST)<br />
::Thanks Catxx! [[User:Huw Powell|Huw Powell]] 01:01, 13 March 2011 (EST)<br />
<br />
== Time to move ==<br />
<br />
Alright I am tired of the slowness that has been RackSpace cloud as of late. We are moving back to a dedicated server with SL where this will really be the only site. Things will break, just report em to me and I will take care of them. Expect rsync to go down again and I will of course forget to re-enable it. I will be configuring the server today and tomrrow and the move will be on Saturday or Sunday.<br />
<br />
When I start the move I will put the wiki in read-only mode, and turn it off on the new server, so you will know when you are looking at the new page. <br />
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Q and Cat will get admin access to the server like usual after it gets setup. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 10:16, 21 April 2011 (EDT)<br />
:Of course VC is cumming too :), I'll update MW while I'm at it too. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 10:25, 21 April 2011 (EDT)<br />
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::I was about to ask if VC was included hehe! What timezone will the move be done in? If it's in GMT early morning, which would be evening for you, that'd be fantabulous. We would wake up to a glorious new server haha! --[[User:Catxx|Cat]] 10:28, 21 April 2011 (EDT)<br />
:::I'm doing Easter with my parents on Saturday, I may stay up to try to get it done when I get home that night. I'm also going to (probably) switch from MySQL so we stop having DB crashes. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 11:23, 21 April 2011 (EDT)<br />
:The bulk of the files have been moved, the DB will hopefully get moved tomorrow (or to-) night and then I will refresh the files. --[[User:PsiPro|Brian]] 14:57, 22 April 2011 (EDT)<br />
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Sounds like fun. Glad I came to check out this edit, since talk:main wouldn't normally grab my attention... but then I haven't weaned you fine folks over to using [[The_Aquarium_Wiki:General_chat]] for things like this (since this isn't about the main page). Cheers and best of luck with the transition! (Will the IP address change and have to propagate? Oh yes of course, I see, we'll get the old site until the IP gets to us. Nice work.) [[User:Huw Powell|Huw Powell]] 00:47, 23 April 2011 (EDT)<br />
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=== Move on 7/11 ===<br />
So I was getting really tired of SoftLayer, so we moved again. Lets see how it goes here. Let me know when stuff breaks. I you see this your on the new server.<br />
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==== Looks like file uploads are broken ====<br />
It looks like its not detecting MIME types...<br />
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== Suggestions for Main Page ==<br />
<br />
Some suggestions for the main page:<br />
* add links for some of the other big areas of the hobby like water chemistry and equipment<br />
* move all editing/contributing links into one place (e.g. Editor ToDo and Templates)<br />
* merge the links on the top right (Freshwater fish, Freshwater plants, etc..) into the main "Browse the Aquarium Wiki" area (many are duplicates)<br />
<br />
If you think these are reasonable I can create a temporary page with the suggestions included.<br />
<br />
(This is a great site. I can't believe it isn't referenced more - at least it isn't in the saltwater forums I read.)<br />
<br />
[[User:Brianlow|Brian Low]] 17:34, 6 January 2012 (CST)</div>Brianlow