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+ | == What is the Walstad Method? == | ||
[[Image:Five Litre Walstad tank.jpg|thumb|right|5 Litre Walstad tank set up in one day with fish]] | [[Image:Five Litre Walstad tank.jpg|thumb|right|5 Litre Walstad tank set up in one day with fish]] | ||
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This method of setting up an aquarium tank was made popular by [[Diana Walstad]], author of the book 'ECOLOGY of the PLANTED AQUARIUM - A Practical Manual and Scientific Treatise for the Home Aquarist'. | This method of setting up an aquarium tank was made popular by [[Diana Walstad]], author of the book 'ECOLOGY of the PLANTED AQUARIUM - A Practical Manual and Scientific Treatise for the Home Aquarist'. | ||
+ | *Basically it's a natural planted tank with a substrate containing a soil underlayer. | ||
== Alternative names == | == Alternative names == | ||
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* Do water changes as needed [some soils often require frequent water changes the first two months to remove miscellaneous toxins (e.g., wood oils) released by the soil. Also, new soils invariably release algae-stimulating nutrients (Nitrogen) the first couple months.] After tank is established, water changes can be very infrequent. | * Do water changes as needed [some soils often require frequent water changes the first two months to remove miscellaneous toxins (e.g., wood oils) released by the soil. Also, new soils invariably release algae-stimulating nutrients (Nitrogen) the first couple months.] After tank is established, water changes can be very infrequent. | ||
− | * You should wait at least two months while water parameters are established before adding aquatic animals; however, simple algae-controlling organisms such as feeder shrimp ("wild shrimp") can be added prior to that point. It may be necessary (though unusual) during this "soil break-in period" to do some water changes to lower tannins. Some people use [[activated carbon]] in the filter if you wish to remove any yellow tannin effect (but realise these tannins are a health benefit to the tank animals | + | * You should wait at least two months while water parameters are established before adding aquatic animals; however, simple algae-controlling organisms such as feeder shrimp ("wild shrimp") can be added prior to that point. It may be necessary (though unusual) during this "soil break-in period" to do some water changes to lower tannins. Some people use [[activated carbon]] in the filter if you wish to remove any yellow tannin effect (but realise these tannins are a health benefit to the tank animals. |
* Monitor ammonia/nitrite levels for the first month. If you get any level above zero, act on them - perform a 25% water change! However if you add [[Prime]] or [[AmQuel Plus|AmQuel+]] daily for a month, you'll protect the tank occupants against any possible harm from ammonia/nitrite and eliminate this chore. | * Monitor ammonia/nitrite levels for the first month. If you get any level above zero, act on them - perform a 25% water change! However if you add [[Prime]] or [[AmQuel Plus|AmQuel+]] daily for a month, you'll protect the tank occupants against any possible harm from ammonia/nitrite and eliminate this chore. | ||
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* Consider adding small snails as these speed up the mulm breakdown. But not essential. | * Consider adding small snails as these speed up the mulm breakdown. But not essential. | ||
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* You'll need a water hardness ([[GH]]) of greater than 7d. To raise GH you can add [[coral gravel]] or clean sea shells and let them slowly dissolve. However, adding a 4:1 mixture of calcium chloride and magnesium sulphate is one way to get the GH up immediately without increasing the pH. | * You'll need a water hardness ([[GH]]) of greater than 7d. To raise GH you can add [[coral gravel]] or clean sea shells and let them slowly dissolve. However, adding a 4:1 mixture of calcium chloride and magnesium sulphate is one way to get the GH up immediately without increasing the pH. | ||
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* Add slower growing plants like ''Hydrocotyle verticillata'' and ''Anubias'' once the fast-growing plants are established. | * Add slower growing plants like ''Hydrocotyle verticillata'' and ''Anubias'' once the fast-growing plants are established. | ||
− | * Test your [[nitrate]] levels monthly (or sooner after adding fish) to ensure that nitrate levels are not rising too high (ie > 50 mg/l). If it does, you' | + | * Test your [[nitrate]] levels monthly (or sooner after adding fish) to ensure that nitrate levels are not rising too high (ie > 50 mg/l). If it does, you're probably |
+ | got too many fish or are feeding them too much. | ||
* Replace the lighting tubes every 9–12 months (compact fluorescent lights can go on considerably longer). | * Replace the lighting tubes every 9–12 months (compact fluorescent lights can go on considerably longer). | ||
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* Dwarf Sag (Sagittaria subulata) | * Dwarf Sag (Sagittaria subulata) | ||
* Grass-leaved Arrowhead (Sagittaria graminae ) | * Grass-leaved Arrowhead (Sagittaria graminae ) | ||
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===Take longer to establish but then grow well=== | ===Take longer to establish but then grow well=== | ||
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* Water Sprite (Ceratopteris thalictroides) | * Water Sprite (Ceratopteris thalictroides) | ||
* Frog Bit (Limnobium laevigatum) | * Frog Bit (Limnobium laevigatum) | ||
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===These stem plants have always done well=== | ===These stem plants have always done well=== | ||
* Bacopa monnieri (waterhyssop, brahmi, thyme-leafed gratiola, water hyssop, herb of grace, Indian pennywort) | * Bacopa monnieri (waterhyssop, brahmi, thyme-leafed gratiola, water hyssop, herb of grace, Indian pennywort) |