Editing Walstad method
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* Biofilter may not be required (plants will take care of the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, and the soil bacteria will also consume nitrogen). | * Biofilter may not be required (plants will take care of the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, and the soil bacteria will also consume nitrogen). | ||
| − | == Principal | + | == Principal Strps == |
[[Image:3 Litre Walstad Tank.jpg|thumb|right|3 Litre Walstad tank set up in one day with shrimp]] | [[Image:3 Litre Walstad Tank.jpg|thumb|right|3 Litre Walstad tank set up in one day with shrimp]] | ||
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* Provide adequate lighting. This should be at least 2W per US Gallon (3.8L) of fluorescent lighting over the length of the tank for a period of at least 10 hours a day. 'Cool white' tubes are usually all that is required. If you can position the tank so that it can get a little sunlight for at least an hour a day, then do so (make sure water doesn't overheat). Diana recommends a mid-day siesta <ref>[http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/el-natural/67271-lighting-siesta-co2.html Diana's original post about the siesta photoperiod]</ref>, and uses a 5 hour on, 4 hours off, 5 hours on photoperiod on her own tanks. The dark period allows CO2 levels to rise which promotes plant growth and inhibits algae growth. | * Provide adequate lighting. This should be at least 2W per US Gallon (3.8L) of fluorescent lighting over the length of the tank for a period of at least 10 hours a day. 'Cool white' tubes are usually all that is required. If you can position the tank so that it can get a little sunlight for at least an hour a day, then do so (make sure water doesn't overheat). Diana recommends a mid-day siesta <ref>[http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/el-natural/67271-lighting-siesta-co2.html Diana's original post about the siesta photoperiod]</ref>, and uses a 5 hour on, 4 hours off, 5 hours on photoperiod on her own tanks. The dark period allows CO2 levels to rise which promotes plant growth and inhibits algae growth. | ||
| − | * Add room temperature conditioned (no [[chlorine]] or [[chloramine]]) water. Or add water conditioner | + | * Add room temperature conditioned (no [[chlorine]] or [[chloramine]]) water. Or add water conditioner right away. |
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* Provide enough water movement (via filters, power-heads, etc) to keep the water safely oxygenated for fish and soil bacteria. (Keeping water safely oxygenated is especially important the first two months with a freshly submerged soil). Water circulation near the water surface will break up possible [[bio-film]] development. | * Provide enough water movement (via filters, power-heads, etc) to keep the water safely oxygenated for fish and soil bacteria. (Keeping water safely oxygenated is especially important the first two months with a freshly submerged soil). Water circulation near the water surface will break up possible [[bio-film]] development. | ||
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* Do water changes as needed [some soils often require frequent water changes the first two months to remove miscellaneous toxins (e.g., wood oils) released by the soil. Also, new soils invariably release algae-stimulating nutrients (Nitrogen) the first couple months.] After tank is established, water changes can be very infrequent. | * Do water changes as needed [some soils often require frequent water changes the first two months to remove miscellaneous toxins (e.g., wood oils) released by the soil. Also, new soils invariably release algae-stimulating nutrients (Nitrogen) the first couple months.] After tank is established, water changes can be very infrequent. | ||
| − | * You | + | * You can add aquatic animals same day after set-up, but closely monitor fish health. It may be necessary (though unusual) during this "soil break-in period" to do some water changes to lower tannins. Some people use [[activated carbon]] in the filter if you wish to remove any yellow tannin effect (but realise these tannins are a health benefit to the tank animals. |
* Monitor ammonia/nitrite levels for the first month. If you get any level above zero, act on them - perform a 25% water change! However if you add [[Prime]] or [[AmQuel Plus|AmQuel+]] daily for a month, you'll protect the tank occupants against any possible harm from ammonia/nitrite and eliminate this chore. | * Monitor ammonia/nitrite levels for the first month. If you get any level above zero, act on them - perform a 25% water change! However if you add [[Prime]] or [[AmQuel Plus|AmQuel+]] daily for a month, you'll protect the tank occupants against any possible harm from ammonia/nitrite and eliminate this chore. | ||
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* Add slower growing plants like ''Hydrocotyle verticillata'' and ''Anubias'' once the fast-growing plants are established. | * Add slower growing plants like ''Hydrocotyle verticillata'' and ''Anubias'' once the fast-growing plants are established. | ||
| − | * Test your [[nitrate]] levels monthly (or sooner after adding fish) to ensure that nitrate levels are not rising too high (ie > 50 mg/l). If it does, you' | + | * Test your [[nitrate]] levels monthly (or sooner after adding fish) to ensure that nitrate levels are not rising too high (ie > 50 mg/l). If it does, you're probably |
| + | got too many fish or are feeding them too much. | ||
* Replace the lighting tubes every 9–12 months (compact fluorescent lights can go on considerably longer). | * Replace the lighting tubes every 9–12 months (compact fluorescent lights can go on considerably longer). | ||
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* Dwarf Sag (Sagittaria subulata) | * Dwarf Sag (Sagittaria subulata) | ||
* Grass-leaved Arrowhead (Sagittaria graminae ) | * Grass-leaved Arrowhead (Sagittaria graminae ) | ||
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===Take longer to establish but then grow well=== | ===Take longer to establish but then grow well=== | ||
